What settings should I use on my lens for optimal results

Okay, so I’m really new to photography. I just got a new DSLR (a Nikon D3500) and the kit lens that came with it (an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6). I’ve been trying to take some photos, mostly of my dog running around in the park and some landscapes when I go hiking. But they all seem… off. Either blurry, too dark, or just not as sharp and vibrant as the pictures I see online.

I know there are a bunch of settings on the lens and camera (aperture, ISO, shutter speed, focus modes…) and I’m feeling totally overwhelmed. I’ve read some basic tutorials, but they’re not really helping me figure out what specific settings to use in different situations with this specific lens.

So, what are some general settings I should be using with my 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 lens for:

• Taking photos of a moving dog outside in daylight?
• Taking landscape photos during the day (sunny and cloudy)?
• Taking indoor photos of people (portrait style)? I don’t have any fancy lighting equipment.

I understand it’s not a "one size fits all" answer, but any starting points or rules of thumb would be hugely appreciated! I’m also unsure when to use the different focus modes (AF-S, AF-C, AF-A) and metering modes. Thanks!

Answer

To provide you with the "optimal" lens settings, I need to know what you are trying to photograph. Lens settings are heavily dependent on the subject, desired effect, and lighting conditions. Let’s break down the key settings and how they relate to different photography scenarios.

1. Aperture (f-stop)

• What it is: The aperture is the opening in your lens that lets light pass through to the camera’s sensor. It’s measured in f-stops (e.g., f/1.4, f/2.8, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22). A lower f-stop number (like f/1.4) indicates a wider aperture, letting in more light. A higher f-stop number (like f/16) indicates a smaller aperture, letting in less light.
• Depth of Field (DOF): Aperture has a direct impact on the depth of field – the area in your image that appears sharp.
  • Wide Aperture (low f-stop): Creates a shallow depth of field. Only a small portion of the image will be in focus, blurring the background (bokeh). This is great for portraits, isolating subjects, and creating a dreamy look.
  • Narrow Aperture (high f-stop): Creates a large depth of field. More of the image will be in focus, from foreground to background. This is ideal for landscapes, architecture, and group photos where you want everything to be sharp.

• Light:

  • Wide Aperture (low f-stop): Allows more light to enter the camera, which is useful in low-light situations.
  • Narrow Aperture (high f-stop): Allows less light to enter the camera, which may be necessary in bright sunlight to avoid overexposure.

• Diffraction: At very high f-stops (f/16, f/22, or higher, depending on the lens), image sharpness can slightly decrease due to a phenomenon called diffraction. Light waves bend around the edges of the small aperture, causing a softening effect.

• Examples:
  • Portraits: f/1.4 to f/2.8 (shallow DOF to isolate the subject)
  • Landscapes: f/8 to f/16 (large DOF to get everything sharp)
  • Group photos: f/5.6 to f/8 (sufficient DOF to get everyone in focus)
  • Low-light photography: As wide open as your lens allows (to gather more light).

2. Focal Length

• What it is: The focal length of a lens is measured in millimeters (mm) and determines the angle of view and magnification. A shorter focal length (e.g., 16mm) provides a wider angle of view, while a longer focal length (e.g., 200mm) provides a narrower angle of view and greater magnification.

• Angle of View:

  • Wide-angle lenses (e.g., 10-24mm): Capture a broad scene. They’re good for landscapes, architecture, and interiors. They can also create a sense of perspective distortion.
  • Standard lenses (e.g., 35-50mm): Provide a field of view similar to human vision. They’re versatile and good for general photography, street photography, and portraits.
  • Telephoto lenses (e.g., 70-200mm, 100-400mm): Magnify distant subjects. They’re used for wildlife, sports, and portraiture (to compress perspective).
  • Super-telephoto lenses (e.g. 400mm and above): Used for extreme magnification. These are used for wildlife or sports photography where the photographer has a great distance to the subject.

• Perspective Compression: Longer focal lengths compress perspective, making distant objects appear closer together. Wide-angle lenses exaggerate perspective, making nearby objects appear larger and more distant objects smaller.

• Examples:
  • Landscapes: 16-35mm (wide angle)
  • Portraits: 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, or 70-200mm (depending on the desired compression and distance)
  • Wildlife: 200mm or longer (telephoto)
  • Street photography: 24mm, 35mm, or 50mm (versatile)

3. Focus Mode

• Single Autofocus (AF-S or One-Shot AF): The camera focuses once when you press the shutter button halfway. Use this for stationary subjects.
• Continuous Autofocus (AF-C or AI Servo AF): The camera continuously adjusts focus as long as you hold the shutter button halfway down. Use this for moving subjects.
• Manual Focus (MF): You control the focus ring on the lens to focus manually. This is useful for very precise focusing or when autofocus is not working well (e.g., in low light or with subjects behind obstructions).

4. Image Stabilization (IS/VR/OS)

• What it is: Image stabilization (IS, VR, OS are brand-specific terms) reduces camera shake, allowing you to use slower shutter speeds without blurring the image.
• When to Use: Turn it on when shooting handheld, especially in low light or with long focal lengths.
• When to Turn Off: Turn it off when using a tripod, as the stabilization system can sometimes introduce slight vibrations.
• Panning: Some lenses have a panning mode (usually indicated by a switch on the lens). This allows the image stabilization to correct for vertical movement while allowing horizontal movement when you are following a moving subject.

Putting It All Together – Examples

• Landscape Photography (Bright Sunlight):

  • Aperture: f/8 to f/11 (for maximum depth of field)
  • Focal Length: 16-35mm (wide-angle to capture the expansive scene)
  • Focus Mode: AF-S or Manual Focus (focus on a point 1/3 into the scene for optimal sharpness)
  • Image Stabilization: Off (if using a tripod), On (if handheld)
  • ISO: 100 (or the lowest native ISO of your camera)
  • Shutter Speed: Adjust to achieve proper exposure

• Portrait Photography (Indoors, Low Light):

  • Aperture: f/1.4 to f/2.8 (for shallow depth of field and to let in more light)
  • Focal Length: 35mm, 50mm, or 85mm (depending on the desired framing and perspective)
  • Focus Mode: AF-S (for stationary subjects) or AF-C (if the subject is moving slightly) using Eye-AF if your camera has that option.
  • Image Stabilization: On (to allow for a slower shutter speed)
  • ISO: Auto (but set a maximum to avoid excessive noise), starting at ISO 400 and raising if needed.
  • Shutter Speed: 1/60th of a second or faster (to avoid motion blur)
• Wildlife Photography (Distant Subject):
  • Aperture: f/5.6 to f/8 (to balance light and sharpness)
  • Focal Length: 200mm or longer (to magnify the subject)
  • Focus Mode: AF-C (to track the moving animal)
  • Image Stabilization: On (to counteract camera shake)
  • ISO: Auto (to maintain a fast enough shutter speed)
  • Shutter Speed: 1/500th of a second or faster (to freeze motion)

Important Considerations:

• Lighting: Lighting is crucial. Bright light allows for smaller apertures and faster shutter speeds. Low light requires wider apertures, higher ISOs, and potentially slower shutter speeds (which can lead to blur).
• Subject Movement: If your subject is moving, you’ll need a faster shutter speed to freeze the motion.
• Camera Metering: Use your camera’s metering system to help you determine the correct exposure (the balance between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO). Common metering modes include evaluative/matrix, center-weighted, and spot metering.
• Histogram: Learn to read your camera’s histogram. It’s a graph that shows the tonal distribution of your image. It helps you determine if your image is overexposed (too much light), underexposed (too little light), or properly exposed.
• Experimentation: The best way to learn is to experiment. Take lots of photos with different settings and see how they affect the final image. Pay attention to the EXIF data (the metadata embedded in the image file) to see what settings you used.

In summary, there’s no single "optimal" lens setting. The best settings depend on a combination of factors. By understanding how each setting affects your image, you can make informed decisions to achieve the results you want.